27 April 2009
No new news........
Haven't done any more work on the dress - too busy working on the chook pen and reading ;-) Hope to work out the sleeves over the next few days.........
15 April 2009
Day two of the project
12/4/2009
Fabric cut out as well as lining (I used calico from my stash) and iron on interfacing. I used lightweight interfacing as that is what I had in my stash but heavy should be used. Sewed the bodice and remembered to leave the armholes un-sewn but forgot to leave the bottom hem open! Unpicked the hem......I had only one length of material left to make the skirt - luckily it was long enough and wide enough! It isn't particularly full but I still needed to pleat it to fit the bodice. Sewed the skirt to the bodice. Now I need to hand sew the armhole lining to the bodice and the bodice lining over the seam of the skirt where it attaches to the bodice. I also put boning in the front closure to stop the lacing holes pulling too severely. I also need to do the lacing holes.
Still need to decide on sleeve style which is the next part of the project!
Fabric cut out as well as lining (I used calico from my stash) and iron on interfacing. I used lightweight interfacing as that is what I had in my stash but heavy should be used. Sewed the bodice and remembered to leave the armholes un-sewn but forgot to leave the bottom hem open! Unpicked the hem......I had only one length of material left to make the skirt - luckily it was long enough and wide enough! It isn't particularly full but I still needed to pleat it to fit the bodice. Sewed the skirt to the bodice. Now I need to hand sew the armhole lining to the bodice and the bodice lining over the seam of the skirt where it attaches to the bodice. I also put boning in the front closure to stop the lacing holes pulling too severely. I also need to do the lacing holes.
Still need to decide on sleeve style which is the next part of the project!
And we begin.......
Step 1
Got mum to assist with measurements and wrote them into booklet
Step 2
Remembered I already had a chemise from my Elizabethan experiment - it is a little tight under the arms but perfectly fine for this experiment! I still want to make a new one complete with blackwork embroidery, but it can wait for now.
Step 3
or decisions, decisions!!
Decided on a square neck bodice with front lacing so I can 'dress myself' and thought this would be easiest for a first attempt. I also decided on detached sleeves for flexibility. Still deciding on exact style of sleeve though.
Step 4 or more decisions!
Picking material! I went through my stash and found some very pale blue silkish looking material (it is not silk - not sure what it is but I got it courtesy of Aminah - thanks Aminah!). I also found some gold coloured brocade material for the sleeves.
Step 5
Making the bodice pattern
- draw the pattern onto brown paper using measurements taken with mum in step 1 and following instructions in booklet
- drafting the pattern was very difficult for me! After double checking some measurements (it just didn't look right) and a few goes later I finally had a paper pattern! Still not convinced it is correct ;-) Cutting out of scrap material (remembering to leave a seam allowance) and then adjust fit on. Update Pattern did not work very well - goofed it somewhere! The back was way too short! Back to the drawing board! I have a number of commercial patterns but I want to do more than that! I will be ordering Historic Patterns 'Italian Renaissance Gowns C 1470-1505' and 'Women's German Puff and Slash Gowns C 1500-1545 AD'. The Cotehardie one was good as was the gambeson one - unfortunately I just do not have the skills yet to draft a pattern!
Take 2
I didn't want to give up so went back and redrew the back piece of the pattern. I then cut it out of scrap, sewed it together and tried it on. I got my husband to mark the changes needed to the armholes and neckline. I adjusted the fit along the bust and then cut myself out of the toile. I unpicked the seams and traced the pattern back onto paper so I could re-use it. Hopefully I have it right this time!. I will now cut out my fabric.......
Got mum to assist with measurements and wrote them into booklet
Step 2
Remembered I already had a chemise from my Elizabethan experiment - it is a little tight under the arms but perfectly fine for this experiment! I still want to make a new one complete with blackwork embroidery, but it can wait for now.
Step 3
or decisions, decisions!!
Decided on a square neck bodice with front lacing so I can 'dress myself' and thought this would be easiest for a first attempt. I also decided on detached sleeves for flexibility. Still deciding on exact style of sleeve though.
Step 4 or more decisions!
Picking material! I went through my stash and found some very pale blue silkish looking material (it is not silk - not sure what it is but I got it courtesy of Aminah - thanks Aminah!). I also found some gold coloured brocade material for the sleeves.
Step 5
Making the bodice pattern
- draw the pattern onto brown paper using measurements taken with mum in step 1 and following instructions in booklet
- drafting the pattern was very difficult for me! After double checking some measurements (it just didn't look right) and a few goes later I finally had a paper pattern! Still not convinced it is correct ;-) Cutting out of scrap material (remembering to leave a seam allowance) and then adjust fit on. Update Pattern did not work very well - goofed it somewhere! The back was way too short! Back to the drawing board! I have a number of commercial patterns but I want to do more than that! I will be ordering Historic Patterns 'Italian Renaissance Gowns C 1470-1505' and 'Women's German Puff and Slash Gowns C 1500-1545 AD'. The Cotehardie one was good as was the gambeson one - unfortunately I just do not have the skills yet to draft a pattern!
Take 2
I didn't want to give up so went back and redrew the back piece of the pattern. I then cut it out of scrap, sewed it together and tried it on. I got my husband to mark the changes needed to the armholes and neckline. I adjusted the fit along the bust and then cut myself out of the toile. I unpicked the seams and traced the pattern back onto paper so I could re-use it. Hopefully I have it right this time!. I will now cut out my fabric.......
Italian Renaissance Gown project part two
I found an instruction booklet called "Italian Renaissance Gown Construction" by Mistress Leona Khadine d'Este and Mistress Enid D'Auliere. I normally like to have a pattern as I am not a confident seamstress however these instructions are clear enough that I think I want to give it a go!
The first things I need to do are:
1) Get mum to help me get accurate measurements
2) Decide on a chemise
3) Decide type of bodice - front, back or side lacing
4) Decide on neck shape - square, round or v
5) Detached, attached or combination sleeves?
6) One, two or three piece sleeves etc (So many choices!!! LOL)
7) What embellishments?
8) Make bodice pattern
9) Make chemise
10) Make gown
11) Research headwear and make
12) Research accessories
The first things I need to do are:
1) Get mum to help me get accurate measurements
2) Decide on a chemise
3) Decide type of bodice - front, back or side lacing
4) Decide on neck shape - square, round or v
5) Detached, attached or combination sleeves?
6) One, two or three piece sleeves etc (So many choices!!! LOL)
7) What embellishments?
8) Make bodice pattern
9) Make chemise
10) Make gown
11) Research headwear and make
12) Research accessories
14 April 2009
Italian Inspiration
Part one - started 11/4/2009
I haven't made myself a new outfit for some time. Elizabethan wasn't for me - too hot and too cumbersome for what I need. I still love my cotehardies and Viking is very practical and comfortable. This time though, I want to try something different. I have seen some Italian Renaissance gowns and I must admit I like the look of them. What they look like on me though may be something totally different! LOL I have a large stash of material so I figured I'll make an outfit and if it doesn't suit me, it will be a gift for the hospit gear. If it does turn out, then I will use my burgundy velveteen to make a speccy outfit ;-)
Where to start? Atlantia A & S links, Realm of Venus, Google and several hours later I have a starting point. I like these portraits, courtesy of Realm of Venus .
Will post more tomorrow......
I haven't made myself a new outfit for some time. Elizabethan wasn't for me - too hot and too cumbersome for what I need. I still love my cotehardies and Viking is very practical and comfortable. This time though, I want to try something different. I have seen some Italian Renaissance gowns and I must admit I like the look of them. What they look like on me though may be something totally different! LOL I have a large stash of material so I figured I'll make an outfit and if it doesn't suit me, it will be a gift for the hospit gear. If it does turn out, then I will use my burgundy velveteen to make a speccy outfit ;-)
Where to start? Atlantia A & S links, Realm of Venus, Google and several hours later I have a starting point. I like these portraits, courtesy of Realm of Venus .
Will post more tomorrow......
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